It looks like you have a good understanding of where you need to go. I would definitely make the dust collection system a little higher on the priority list. A good system is a must.
The Z-axis is down right worth every penny. I have the Cnc4newbie Z and wish I had upgraded sooner.
What Spindle are you running? Good speed control is nice. I hacked my 611 and hacked one of the harbor fright router spread controllers. It has worked great. For Christmas LAST YEAR, I received a SuperPID but have still yet to install it. The speed controller works great bc I like to control the speed by using my ear to listen to the cut. This allows for simple on the fly control without having to know an exact speed and without having to try to control the speed by the knob on the moving router.
If you are going to upgrade to 1800mm, I recommend that you prep all of the parts needed for that upgrade at the same time and consider it as only 1 complete upgrade. This will save frustration In The long run.
This will include the substructure, wasteboard, rails, belts, wiring and drag chain and probably a few other things such as bolts, connectors and brackets. If you are for sure going to perform this upgrade, might as well do the lift plates giving you more Z height at the same time (not entirely necessary to do it at this time but since the machine is already dismantled, might as well.)
I found that if I mounted the drag chain in the center of the table along the Y axis, that it would allow me to use one length of chain to go from front to back. This kept from having to have an extra long drag chain.
An aluminum bed looks very nice, but a wasteboard is still needed in my opinion. You don’t want to start carving into the aluminum bed. The aluminum bed will add a lot of rigidity, requiring a shallower torsion Box. This is a personal preference that comes at one of the biggest expenses. Not needed by any means. (Personally, I am planning to take this route in the near future)
I did not go the Jtech route. I purchased a stand alone CO2 laser. By my understanding the Jtech has a Very Loyal Following. So it is worth looking into. (I just wanted a more powerful laser that will CUT THICKER material)
With a very efficient dust collection system the dust shields are not required. If you have access to a 3D printer, then sure print them, the cost is dirt cheap if you personally have the capability but with a good collection system they should not be required. Since I upgraded to my new design of dust shoe for the 611and replaced the 5hp ClearView Max dust collector with a 5gallon cyclone and shop vac ($39 Lowes Black Friday Special) no dust escapes so the shields won’t do much good for my machine.
A vacuum waste Board is extremely handy. I love using Vacuum clamping in my shop. This can be performed several ways. As a stand alone tabletop or as an auxiliary tabletop. Several great you tube videos are available. I am planning a Vacuum upgrade to my bed in the near future. However, the Vacuum is not 100% necessary. Decide how you want to do your base foundation/structure first, then you can consider what type of wasteboard. This is an area that will give mixed returns and is more determined by your workflow and preferred method of clamping. However at the cost of a sheet of MDF, the Vacuum System can be added at a reasonable price if you already have the proper tools laying around. There are multiple ways of getting Vacuum, but just keep in mind that the shop vacs and DC systems need to be properly vented so that they cool and don’t overheat. So a shopvac will need external cooling and not be cooled by the air being pulled through the shopvac. My shopvac that was from Lowes would overheat and burn out if I set it up on a Vacuum Table System because the airflow gets blocked which will not allow the motor to cool. So the Vacuum Table takes a little thought to get an efficient system. Do your research on this before you move forward. Proper clamping is a Must with whichever method you take.
I would keep the X-Controller close to the machine, mainly bc of the E-Stop. If you have adequate dust collection the X-controller can be inches away and never be adversely affected.
I have a new set of 24v limit switches ready to install on my machine once I have the time. Currently the stock limit switches have recently started acting up. But I do not have the X-Controller with built in filters either and I have not installed any filters. Either of these methods might of resolved my issue without upgrading to the new switches.
Definitely look into a Zero Plate. Well worth the investment.
I can’t comment on the Gcode processor.
To properly tram my Z, I use three tools. A solid metal shaft to fit into the collet (must be perfectly straight, even a drill bit can work, I purchased a drill bit blank from Grizzly), a small machinists square and a flashlight. If light leaks between the square and the shaft adjust accordingly. I used a butter dish lid to make shims. Aluminum foil also gives good micro adjustment shims.
There are several methods to use that do not require tabs. Some work well for some individuals and not for others. Do some research on the forum and YouTube and you will be able to find multiple options for this.
One thing that was not mentioned in your list was a Precision Collet. These are much nicer and more precise than the stock Collet and give less run out.
Do you plan on using a rotary axis? I reserved the very back 300mm of my 1800mm Yaxis to recess the rotary axis into the table. This will allow about a 12” blank to be carved on the rotary axis.
Hope you found this information helpful.
