Does anyone else get the burs inside cut. Maybe using wrong bit. using Solid Carbide Single Flute Upcut End Mill 1/8 " Pine wood.
Try using a downcut bit. It should eliminate the fuzzies your getting.
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You could use ball nose but that will leave rounded edges at the bottom.
Downcut is good as suggested.
You can also use a bit of sanding after a wire brush to finish the project.
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@MikeEllison
so I would defiently switch to a downcut tool in the pine I think you will see better results
but a couple questions ;
are you conventional or climb milling?
are you offset or raster cutting?
and do you know the moisture content of your wood?
also your stepover setting seems to be a little big what setting are you using?
I notice a few odd things in your pics
the upcut tool will usually leave fuzzing on the top of the cut and from the pics it looks like its only on the wall of the cut and also that its not in all areas which tells me there might be a problem with cut direction
pine can be a little tricky sometimes
do you have the brand and part number of the tool that you are using?
@RobertCanning
for sure
This is only my 3rd project with my x-carve i am total NOOB. i believe conventional cut, i dont know what you mean by “you offset or raster cutting?” Moisture content unknown, i purchased the wood from home depot pre cut rounded. Explain stepover please or i can check forums. The bit is new so i think sharpness is not an issue and if you notice cross grain is fine. BTW palm sander took off chads instantly.well it came out OK! i will be ordering downcut bit and thanks for all advice.
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Hey mike so the difference in offset vs raster cutting is shown here
offset tool goes around and around offseting a certain amount each time
raster the tool goes side to side and offsets in the y axis each time
basically the moisture content on things bought from the home center are not so much of an issue because everything kiln dried
as you progress more in your cutting experience a wood moisture meter might be beneficial
as so for step over basically think in a x, y, and z plane
x= left to right movement
y= forward and back movement
z= up and down movement
so if you want to cut a line on the y-axis starting on the front of the machine and then move to the back then if you want to make that line wider the tool needs to “step over” in the x-axis direction either left or right
a common setting for stepover is around 40-50% the diameter of the tool remember the toolpaths are created from the center line of the tool
so if you have a .25" diameter tool a 50% stepover is .125"
this is important for a couple reasons like chipload and surface finish the smaller the step over the better the finish is a general rule to use
but yeah so I would suggest a Onsrud 57-240 tool for a 2 flute .125" downcut carbide spiral runs about 20 bucks and works good in natural and composite woods I have found
a 57-240 and 57-910 are my general purpose go to workhorse tools for my machine
for better finishes you might explore things like
compression spirals and low helix finishers or 3-flute end mills
also a good practice is to measure your tools a .125" end mill is not always .125" but I have found that the Onsrud tools are extremely close but still good practice to always measure your tools and enter the correct diameter before generating toolpaths
you could get really crazy and check run out as well lol
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Wow great info much appreciated.
@MikeEllison
glad to help 
That was good information, thanks
Ordered my Downcut bits and some tweeking from Workin i should be good.
I would recommend that you use a down cut or a up/down spiral compression bit or a v-bit and I would also recommend that tighten up your step-over. The job will take a bit longer but will clean up your project better