I have a Job for a Client. I will be doing 3D Carving into 4 Pieces of Maple that will be used for a Fireplace Mantel. Any suggestions on what 1/4 Inch Bit to use for the roughing? As well, what about feeds and speeds for the Roughing Bit.It will be for this type of 3 D Carvings
People will probably need a bit more information. To start, what spindle are you using? (I’m assuming DWP611, but I don’t know if the old stock spindle will even take a 1/4" bit.)
Its a Dewalt 611 so it will take 1/4 inch. What other information?
Any quarter inch end mill will work for the roughing. The more interesting decisions revolve around the ballnose finishing. Playing with your stepover and starting with a larger mill like a quarter inch ball nose with a smaller stepover can yield better results than a smaller mill. If you have LOTS of time, choose a larger diameter ballnose for the finishing pass.
Then, recalculate the job specifying a smaller diameter ball nose. Then, just run the finishing pass with the smaller ball nose, but only if you think you need to after examining the work.
Testing helps.
For roughing 2 or 3 flute up-cut end-mill, 2000mm/s, 1mm max DOC, 0.5 stock leave.
For clean-up 2 flute up-cut ball end, 2000mm/s, 0.5mm max DOC, 1mm step over.
You will probably need 1 more pass if you don’t want to do any sanding.
I agree with @Earwigger, I haven’t done any 3d milling, but from what I’ve read this sounds right. If you are looking for some where in town, Lee Valley surprising sells some 1/4" HSS 2 flute upcut bit for a fairly reasonable price.
I recently discovered that if the object has lots of fine detail then doing two detail passes works great. The first detail pass can be with a .125 ball nose and then finish with a second detail pass using a 30 degree vbit. It really makes all the difference. It can take a long time but the final product is much improved.
If you do plan to use the Vbit for the final pass then the stepover for the first detail pass with a .125 ball nose can be much larger which will save some time.
Great Info. Thanks Guys.
I have done a lot of 3d work with maple. I have a water cooled spindle but I think the power is about the same as the dewalt. I use 1/4 end mills for roughing and run them at feed: 170 inch/ min, Plunge 70.0 inch/ min and max depth per pass at 0.09. For finishing I use either a 1/4 or 1/8 ball nose with the same speeds as above. I run the ball nose at the full 24,000 rpm and cut down the end mill to around 21,000.
That’s interesting. I use 50 ipm and a .125" depth of cut for roughing at 21,000. One pass baby (usually).
The ball nose pass is 50 ipm also and I do not limit the DOC, because the roughing pass keeps it pretty safe.
But I use walnut which mills really well.
Interesting… Just out of curiosity I took a large project and tried both settings. Keep in mind this was for a large project that in places went through the 0.75 inch thick material. At 170 ipm, 70 plunge and 0.09 it estimated it at 5:18, when I substituted in your values it went up to 10:34.
I have no doubt that depending on the job it may be better to go with yours but on this large one I would take less of a cut and feed it faster.
I would always to with faster! I just assumed my settings were faster. Hmm. I am not even sure my machine would go 170 ipm. I have a 1000mm with Gecko but am hauling a Hitachi around. Seems like it would be kind of shocking and violent. But I want to try it!
I go up to 190 for MDF but I find after that it gets a bit iffy. I have the 800 watt water cooled spindle, not sure what it weighs. I also have the 1000mm but use the stock shield and UGS.
You should make that skull your avatar!
Do you happen to know what your acceleration settings are?
I LOVE how that thing carves walnut. I wish walnut wasn’t so expensive.
Sorry I don’t know where that setting is. I use Aspire and set the settings above using it. Everything else is stock standard from the v-care setup.
@KeithGrunow that seems a bit too fast for the rigidity of this machine and the power limitations of the gShield.
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@CristianHinz these settings work for me after much trial and error. See the attached video of it in action and the outcome.