I made a few more boxes refining both my technique and design.
I still screwed up a lot, thus learning a lot 
I switched to poplar. I wanted to make some boxed with deeper pockets and the 5/4 poplar was cheaper.
I also thought I might have less chatter problems.
I kept reducing my feed rate but even at 25% my normal speed I was still getting some chatter when climb milling. I switched to conventional milling and was able to go at full speed without chatter. The cut quality seemed fine and a cut time of 1.5 hours was already long enough.
I had to play with the tabs a bit, balancing ones strong enough to hold everything in place but not so big as to make cutting and sanding them down a chore. Initially I tried to use no tabs. Adding clamps as I cut away one side at a time. This did not work well and was about as much work as cleaning off the tabs would be. I was happy with the results once I got the tabs dialed in.
Here is how the box will work. Once side to hold the games cards the other to hold the games dice.
The first box I made the raised lip would not fit without a lot of sanding. I updated my design to have a little more space allowance and they fit together perfectly.
The poplar sucked up the die out of the resin I am using. Wicking the color into the wood.
Also the resin is foaming. I am not sure if this is a chemical reaction to the wood or if the batch of resin I have is old and going bad.
On this box I poured a second layer of resin over the first to fill in the pits. Being that this particular symbol is supposed to be “rusted and pitted” looking I didn’t worry about trying to match the original resin color.
On my next inlay I am going to try staining and sealing the wood before pouring the resin and see if that helps at all. Otherwise I may have to switch to a different formulation of resin. Not a big deal as I have been using what I have on hand. We will see how it turns out.
Mistakes made / Lesson learned:
Trying to use extra clamps instead of tabs and having my work piece slip fee mid-cut.
(sand down the sides to hide the uneven cut)
Too strong a tab causing the work to chip and split when I attempted to pull it free.
(Glue the chip back in place. Fill in the cracks with some resin)
Forgot to set the zero point in the center of the work piece for my inlay carve.
(Fill in the cut with resin)
Clicked the “Return to Zero” button instead of the “Reset Zero” button when setting my zero point.
(Drove the bit into the wood before I could E Stop. Fortunately I did not break the bit and the hole was in the carve area.)
Fight with the software until I got the zero point to properly be in the center of the work.
(Turn off the “offset” values on the zero point in VCarve)
(Use the Visualize feature in UGS until it looked right)
)
